Pot of Gold

Refer to Umpqua Guide topo U, pp. 126. P1: climb first short pitch about about 25 ft to belay anchors just above bushes (5.6). This sets you up to climb Midas (right, 5.8), The Cave Route (straight up, 5.9+), or Pot of Gold (left, (5.10c/d). P2: follow bolts traversing left to arete ridge line and up to a ledge at headwall (5.9). Climb headwall with one bolt protecting crux move up headwall and the next close but just out of sight (5.10d). Once over headwall follow bolts back to the arete and to the top (5.7). Rappel from chains down the Cave Route to the ground (100 ft). If the bush near the bottom has not been recently trimmed back plan on having your rope get stuck, or make two rappels the first to the anchors above the bush.

Refer to Umpqua Guide map 6, pp. 123.

bolts, rappel chains