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Peak Mountain 3

Ain't No Puppy

FA M. Frichette & Partner (?) 1970s (?)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The route was pretty good and contained some great climbing, but it also had some flakey rock and insecure moves and lichen. It gets 1 star for now, but it might clean up to two.

Approach as for '

Revocation

.' From the trail, walk out and left on the ledge, which is flat, but as you go left, the ground falls away below... the ledge ends at a pair of corners, '

Revocation

' is the cleaner corner on the right, and 'Ain't No Puppy' is the wider line on the right with the remnants of a bush in it. Set a belay of a large stopper and a 1st-knuckle sized cam on the end of the ledge at the corner.

Climb up into the left corner, (5.9-) past some awkward moves- these might get more secyure if the crack becmes cleaner. Continue up to a wide section of crack in a corner (5.8) and into the great jams in the bulge above (5.9).

You will arrive at a bolt and link belay. Rap 95' to the starting ledge, or 115' (70m rope) to the ground.

Location

Do the same start as for

Revocation

.

Protection

No wide gear is needed - there is a thin-hands crack at the back of the wide crack, but do take doubles in hand-sized gear.