- Edit (TBD)
Description
The route was pretty good and contained some great climbing, but it also had some flakey rock and insecure moves and lichen. It gets 1 star for now, but it might clean up to two.
Approach as for '
Revocation
.' From the trail, walk out and left on the ledge, which is flat, but as you go left, the ground falls away below... the ledge ends at a pair of corners, '
Revocation
' is the cleaner corner on the right, and 'Ain't No Puppy' is the wider line on the right with the remnants of a bush in it. Set a belay of a large stopper and a 1st-knuckle sized cam on the end of the ledge at the corner.
Climb up into the left corner, (5.9-) past some awkward moves- these might get more secyure if the crack becmes cleaner. Continue up to a wide section of crack in a corner (5.8) and into the great jams in the bulge above (5.9).
You will arrive at a bolt and link belay. Rap 95' to the starting ledge, or 115' (70m rope) to the ground.
Location
Do the same start as for
Revocation
.
Protection
No wide gear is needed - there is a thin-hands crack at the back of the wide crack, but do take doubles in hand-sized gear.
Routes in Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs
- 7Ain't No Puppy5.9Trad