- Edit (TBD)
Description
Start between Fin 2 and Fin 3.
Pitch 1: Climb up a slab to a fun, but very thin flake on Fin 3 (a junior version of Wheat Thin in Yosemite). Layback the flake (5.8+,
be sure to pull down, not out
) and traverse left on decent holds (5.7/5.8) to a 2-bolt anchor. This could potentially be a stellar pitch, but it ends too soon.
Pitch 2: Head up the left side of the arete, past 3 bolts on sharp holds and a section of 10b. I found the climbing easier than other climbs of the same grade in Eldo. There was a long runout (perhaps 25 ft) and a switch to the other side of the arete to reach the 4th bolt, but the climbing wasn't difficult. Right above this bolt was a 10a slab, and then a hand and fist-sized crack that led to the summit of Fin 3.
A good climb for sure, but nothing spectacular. Down climb to the north past Fin 4 and the walk-off ledge.
Protection
Standard rack. There are 4 bolts on the 2nd pitch, but gear is needed to augment the protection for a lead.
Routes in Cadillac Crag
- 10Moonlight Drive5.10-Trad