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Dibs and Dabs
Description
This is one of my new favorites! Start with a two-handed undercling with your left foot smeared and right foot heel hooked around the arete. With your left hand, make a big move to a 3 finger crimp and switch the heel hook to a toe hook. Hit the sloper, and bump to the good ledge. Here's where it got hard for me. With the right toe still hooked, move either statically or dynamically to a small crimp and prep for the swing out. After that, make a big move (a campus if you can't get your feet back on) to the lip. Top out.
Location
Hike up the main trail from the main parking lot to the ridge. If you're there, you should be right at a covered bench. From there, head left toward to cluster of boulders (they'll be on your left as you hike over). There's a small trail heading slightly up the hill. Take that trail and the boulder is the most overhung face in the area.
It starts on the right side of the face, and there's an obvious downclimb.
Protection
Pads and spotters. It's not nearly as bad as
Peregrinus
, there is potential for rolling down the hill if you do it right.