Professor Plum With The Candlestick In The Conservatory

Hands down, this is the best route at the Playground. The climbing begins on a steep, West-facing wall around the corner from

Chinook

.

Start in a bulging overhang with a very awkward move to an undercling above your head. The goal shortly will be a pocket above and left. At best, this will gain a chance to get over your feet, but the move is hard and is indeed 5.12 - off the deck. However, the game is not over. Sequential 5.11 climbing with some long reaches to crimpy, thin cobbles and shallow pockets await. Pick up some added spice in the run out to the anchor.

Like many routes here and elsewhere, it feels much harder than 5.12a until you start to dial in the beta. This is in the top ten at CWC. The plum picker here is Tom Hanson.

Quickdraws and a rope.