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Peak Mountain 3

Yard Art

FA Ron Cotman, Gordon Briody
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Yard Art is the approach for all the climbs on Peek-a-boo tower, and a worthwhile climb in its own right. Like many routes in Icicle Creek, it is a mix of bolt and gear protected slab climbing. Described as 4 pitches, easily climbed in 3. All anchors are bolted.

P1. Begin left of a small gully. A short rib gives way to easy low angle slabs. Follow a wide crack through a steep wall, then more slabs. Gear and a few bolts. 5.7

P2. A comitting and balancy move off the belay onto a friction face, then smear up past horizontal cracks to easier slabs above. 5.9

P3. A short pitch heads up a steeper slab. Smearing and nice edging, then a fun pull through a small roof. Easily combined with P2 using a 60m rope. 5.9

P4. Move the belay to the anchor at the base of Lawn Darts. Climb the pocketed groove/chimney/crack thing, which is much weirder to describe than to climb. A fun and memorable pitch. 5.8

Location

To descend: Rap the route (120' rappels)

Protection

A light rack to 3", including some small sized TCUs and 2 large cams for the final pitch (#3 and #4 camalot). Be comfortable on 5.8 for the final pitch, and look around a bit for the gear. There are 2 or 3 bolts on the final pitch, nicely placed for wide/hard to protect moves.


Routes in Peek-a-boo Tower