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Peak Mountain 3

Chip Off the Old Block

FA Tai Devore, Jeremy Freeman, Greg Smith, Adam Winters - March 2009
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Ascends a huge right-facing corner on the 'Scheelite Wall' in the first 3 pitches, then continues up obvious crack systems thru ledges and varied entertaining terrain. Most of the climbing is 5.6/7ish, with one sequence of 5.10a, which could most likely be bypassed by a couple wider cracks and/or some face climbing if need-be.

Pitches 1 - 3:

Climb a wide, flaring crack/groove in the large corner (mostly 5.6/7) to a tricky bulge and a short squeeze section just before reaching the top of the pillar on a nice ledge (5.9). Bolt anchors.

Pitch 4:

Climb straight up, left of the tree thru the crack systems on the slab to a short hand-crack after a bush, then up the short slab to the bolt anchor on a ledge (5.7).

Pitch 5:

Scramble/walk up and right to the base of the next headwall. Climb the short hand crack to the crescent finger crack just right of the offwidth up to the ledge (crux-5.10a).

Pitch 6:

Scramble down and left to the base of the obvious large crack system with a short gang plank at the base. Climb up, over or between large hollow flakes and straight up the crack/groove to the chimney with a bolt. Squeeze your way up and thru as the angle eases back. Find a crack on the left wall that leads up and out to a large ledge (5.8+). Build an anchor somewhere to the left or scramble over to the right side of the large crack to the rappel anchor next to the right-hand slab.

Descent:

Rappel the route

Location

The obvious right-facing corner system towards the left side of the 'Scheelite Wall'.

Protection

Gear to 3", bigger stuff available but not necessary

Bolt anchors/mussy hooks

60m rope


Routes in Scheelite Wall