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Peak Mountain 3

Three Hour Arete

FA Austin Archer & Rick Ziegler, GU
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Four pitch climb with an easy approach. Pitch 1: left and below a bolt single bolt, then up a thin crack (5.9). Head up left to a 5.7 lieback corner. 30m pitch. 1 bolt + gear for belay (small + #2,#3) below small bush. Pitch 2: Start with 5.8 gear protected rightward traverse, then up a crack to a bolted bulge (5.9). 4 more bolts on the 5.8 arete lead to a bolted anchor. Pitch 3: 20m up the bolted arete (5.10a) to a bolted anchor. Pitch 4: Clip a bolt and commit to the crux mantle (5.10c), continue 30m up the bolted arete/face. (Alternately, continue left after the first bolt for the 5.10d, "Hall Pass" variation, leading to the same anchor)

Location

Approach: Park 0.6 miles past Pratt’s

0.6 miles past Pratt's Crack Gully on Pine Creek Road, to where small a creek crosses road.

Walk on old mining road, to use trail.

Short Class 3 to base of cliff.

10 minutes.

Protection

10 quickdraws. Gear: thin - 3 inch. 4 rappels with one 60 or 70m rope.