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Peak Mountain 3

Hero Route

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Description

If you're only going to do one climb off the A0 ledge, this should be the one. Both pitches are super-fun.

P1) Traverse straight left off the belay ledge, following a series of bolts just above the lip of the roof. Finish at a small stance and a 2-bolt anchor. Unless you are solid at the grade, I recommend both leader and follower bring Prusiks. A fall could easily leave you hanging in outer space below the roof. (5.10b/c, 30ft.)

P2) Climb straight up off the belay. Exciting moves, gobs of exposure, and the occasional route finding crux keep you on your toes all the way to the anchors. (5.10b/c, 60ft.)

Location

First pitch traverses straight left off the A0 Ledge for about 30 feet to bolted anchors. P2 goes straight up from there.

Protection

bolts, bolted anchors

We easily made it all the way to the ground from the top anchors with a 60 meter rope. If there's any doubt, you could rap down in 2 pitches but be careful as the wall is slightly overhanging.

Also be advised that the landing zone for the descent can be a minefield of poison ivy. As long as you pay attention and don't go thrashing about willy-nilly you'll be fine.


Routes in A0 Ledge