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Peak Mountain 3

South Ramps

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Description

This is a nice route on clean rock but is somewhat hard to get to, and it is only one short pitch, otherwise I'd give it 3 stars.

The south face of Dinosaur Rock is steep, but breaks down into a lower-angle, ramp system toward its west side. This climb is the logical finish to the "West Bone" route. However, you can also reach the start by leaving the Mallory Cave Trail below the rock, and circling below the East Face to the south face.

There are two ways to climb the ramp: a lieback crack on the east (right), or a featured low angle face on the west (left). Either route is of similar difficulty. The pitch ends on a subsidiary ridge right above the "improbable 5.0 downclimb" on the West Face route. You can go down this or bag the summit first if you like.

Protection

Standard rack. You may want a 3-4" piece or two for the right variation.