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Peak Mountain 3

Tag Team

FA Bruno Haché and Ron Olsen, 6/24/07
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Tag Team is a fun, 2-pitch line that tackles the slabs and overhangs between Toe The Line and Total Eclipse. From the dirt ledge at the start of Toe The Line, scramble right about 40', just past a big pine tree, to a small ledge. There is a 2-bolt belay anchor here (shared with Total Eclipse) that marks the start of the route.

P1: Climb up left past a slabby corner and a short headwall, and continue up left past a V-corner onto a slab. Climb up to a steep headwall at the fifth bolt, where the real fun begins. Move up right on very thin holds (crux) and clip a bolt on the overhanging wall to the right. Work up to a key undercling, then crank up to the awesome Gunks-like quartzite jugs over the roof. Great moves! Turn the roof and continue up a slab to the first belay. This anchor is just left of the first-pitch anchor on Total Eclipse. (5.10d, 65', 7 bolts).

P2: Move about 3-4 feet left up a slab, then gradually move up right towards a beige dihedral that is topped by an overhang. Stay calm and climb straight up the beautiful and technical overhang where hard moves await. This crux is really cool! (5.10d or 5.11b, 50', 8 bolts).

Note: don't angle left on the second pitch or you'll wind up on Toe The Line. It's fun, but it's not the route. Head up and right to the beige dihedral capped by a roof.

The climb could be done in one pitch, but doing it in two pitches allows better communication if your second has trouble at the overhang on the first pitch.

Descent: Two rappels with a 60m rope, or one rappel with a 70m rope. With extreme caution, it can be done with a single 60m.

Location

East Tonnere Tower, just right of the pine tree at the 2-bolt belay anchor shared with Total Eclipse.

Protection

Pitch 1: 2-bolt belay anchor at the start, then 7 bolts to a 2-bolt top anchor.

Pitch 2: 8 bolts, 2-bolt top anchor.