- Edit (TBD)
Description
Upper Arrow is typically climbed as a route in itself. Technically it is the second pitch and continuation of The Generator chimney crack on Lower Arrow (5.7). Before the clear cut the chimney would collect moss requiring annual maintenance so most climbers historically avoided the lower chimney by scrambling out onto a large center ledge and belay. From this belay climb right to an obvious crack in a small dihedral, finger jamming the crack for 30 feet with good foot holds until you come to a fixed piton with bolted line above. Typically this is where the next belay was setup. Continue up to end of the bolts then climb left onto a ridge and up to a lone tree (5.10a). From the tree the last 20 feet is up a bolted slab headwall to the summit. The crux will be a tricky off-balance move at the top on slightly overhanging rock (5.10a). Rappel from chains back down to where you started climbing using two ropes and more than likely a single 60m (need to confirm this assumption). Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007. Topo Ak pp. 168.
Location
Below the ridge just south of the gate at Callahan Road. Refer to Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007. page 167.
Protection
nuts, cams, fixed piton, fixed bolts
Routes in Arrow Rock
- 2Upper Arrow Rock5.10aTrad