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Peak Mountain 3

Evil Twin

FA Dave Pegg and Maurie Waugh, 2013
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UPDATED 

Description

This is one of the steepest routes at Main Elk. You might feel like you're climbing at Rifle as you kick your feet around in space and crank long pulls on big, blocky holds. The movement is fantastic. The main thing this route suffers from is lack of traffic, which is why I'm posting it here. It sits below a runoff zone and is prone to collecting dirt if it goes unused for too long. If it cleans up it might feel more like honest 12c (the "12c/d" rating is how it's listed in the guidebook) and be the kind of pitch I would climb again and again. The dirt factor at the top makes it a touch harder, though.

Location

This is the rightmost route in the alcove, which is the zone just right of the prow, directly above the approach trail.

Protection

11 bolts. Two or three long slings/draws are useful.


Routes in Main Elk Crag


  1. 65
    Evil Twin
    5.12c/d
    Sport