Reality Check

Reality Check is a climb I was really looking forward to. It’s got a star in the Reid Guide, and most of the other starred routes I’ve done at Elephant Rock have been exceptional. Reality Check is exceptionally dirty, but that's about it. It’s got 500 ft of the most lichen encrusted rock you’ll find anywhere, crack systems choked with brush and moss, and some rotten rock on the final pitch to top it all off. It has a few redeeming qualities, but only a few. It follows a relatively steep and super obvious line that is protected without any fixed gear. The crux dihedral on the second pitch will be quite excellent if it is ever cleaned up (unlikely). And you will absolutely, 100% for sure, not ever have to wait behind or even see another party on the route.

On the Northeast side of Elephant Rock is a major cleft formed by Reality Check (on the left) and Plumb Line (on the right). These routes, and the others on the left side which climb from base to summit, are best approached from above regardless of the water levels in the Merced. Approaching from below is a bit of a slog, and requires a lengthy descent unless you leave a second vehicle on Hwy 41.

The final approach for Reality Check is up loose and dirty class 3 ledges, directly below the triangular “cleft”.

Pitch 1. Start by mantling onto a slab and then walk up to a left-facing corner. Getting established in the corner is tricky (5.9) and has some loose rock. My follower trundled the worst of it, so it should be less dangerous now. The dirty corner leads up to a roof split by a thin-hand crack. This crux (5.9-10b, had size dependent) is both well protected and some of the cleanest jamming on the route. A low angle fist crack is then followed to a belay ledge/crevice. 100ft.

Pitch 2. A short off-width leads to a roof. Here you will find a horn made of orange rock which you hang on to reach out past a shrub to place your first good piece under the roof. From here you pull on gear to get out to the arête, or the roof might go free at 5.10/5.11 with some serious gardening. Above the roof is a vertical left-facing corner that varies from fingers to hands. It is 5.10+ in its current vegetated state, but will get easier with more ascents. A small alcove offers a cramped belay (big cams for anchor) or you can keep link this with pitch 3 if you extended your gear below the roof. 120 ft.

Pitch 3. Chimney out of the pod into brief handjams before the crack widens again. A crux here requires passing a mound of dirt and munge which fills the off-width crack. I stemmed past the munge and then placed a #6 above and used it to French-free out of the stem and back into the offwidth. An easier chimney leads to a ledge with 2 old bolts. Be mindful of loose rocks at the top of the chimney and on the ledge. 80 ft.

Pitch 4. A final long pitch is made up the ugly gully and chimney system to the summit. Straightforward with and comparatively easy (5.8). 190 ft.

To descend (the best part of the climb), make a 5 minute walk along a good trail up the hillside and back to your car.

Pro to 4.5" with extra stuff from 1-1.5". The only time the #6 was really useful was for doing a move of C1 on pitch 3.