No Future, No Past

This is an enjoyable five-pitch route up the southeast-facing buttress on the left (west) end of the Banshee Wall. A major gully system separates this buttress from the main Banshee Wall giving this line the feeling of summiting a separate formation. It also affords fantastic views of the Banshee Wall itself. Each pitch is 105’ or less allowing one to climb to with a single 70m, however, in order to rappel the route, climbers need a second 70m rope as there are only three fixed anchors/rappel anchors on the route currently. We intend to go back to add two more fixed anchors/rappel anchors so that the route can be rapped with a single 70m rope. We also intend to add a few lead protection bolts to bring the protection rating down from R to PG13. I also recommend bringing some additional cord to beef up the existing rappel anchors. Each rap anchor has at least one carabiner so you may want to tape the biner or bring a second leaver biner if you prefer redundancy.Pitch 1 - 5.7 (90’). Start up the obvious gully system that separates this formation from the Banshee Wall. When reaching a short, scooped dihedral with no pro, cut left to find good protection on blockier terrain and then move back right above the scooped dihedral. Up higher, avoid going right up an unprotected roofy section and, instead, head left on lesser quality past a small tree to a two-bolt anchor in a tiny alcove below a large roof. Pitch 2 - 5.7 (90’). From the bolted anchor climb up and angle up and right across a face to turn the large roof on its right end. Around the roof climb up and slightly left to a good ledge with finger-sized gear for an anchor in a hollow-sounding block below a small roof. Pitch 3 - 5.8 PG13 (100’). Climb up hollow-sounding blocks to a small roof. Pull through the roof and climb easier, featured rock up and right to a two-bolt anchor in a large dish. Pitch 4 - 5.8 R (110’). Face climb up and slightly left on easy terrain to the steep headwall above. Look for a large chickenhead feature going up steep terrain into a small quartz dike. Pull cautiously on unprotected terrain past this chickenhead (could use a bolt here) to the quartz dike. At the dike, climb up and right getting a flaring #1 camalot for gear as you traverse right a bit more around a corner. At the corner, get a bomber red C3 placement in a pocket and pull around the corner to a short bit of steeper climbing and up along a large dihedral. At the top of the dihedral, pop out onto an awesomely exposed “saddle” and belay here with great, exposed views all around. Gear belay with hand-sized gear. Pitch 5 - 5.7 R (80’). Climb straight up from the belay following cracks on the exposed arete. When the gear runs out, make an airy, unprotected move (could use a bolt here) straight up into small dihedral. Climb the dihedral and then take easier blocky terrain to a big ledge just below the top of the formation. Belay here at a small tree and one-bolt rappel anchor. From the belay/rappel anchor at the top of pitch 5, it’s an easy scramble to the top of the formation for a great view up Porvenir canyon. 

The approach to the Banshee Wall and base of this route is complicated and took us a couple times to get it right.  This hiking route is 2.25 miles and gains roughly 1,400’. It starts on a good trail in the canyon, crossing the stream a few times, before heading off-trail and up steep slopes, through a sneaky notch, and across a large ledge system to the base of the Banshee Wall. Intermittent cairns will hopefully keep you on track. Expect the approach to take an hour and 45 minutes.When you reach the base of the Banshee Wall, continue west along the base to a chimney/gully on the left end of the wall. No Future, No Past starts up this gully before moving left onto the obvious buttress left of the gully.

Not a ton of protection. Single rack from red C3 to #3 camalot and a set of nuts is adequate. Bolt anchors at the top of P1, P3 and P5. Two 70m ropes are required for the rappel descent.