Smoke Bomb

This description is from a single ascent almost 40 years ago. Alison Sheets, who had come to the WGs with another partner for the day, had left us a smoke bomb at the campsite as a July 4th surprise.

Located on the right side of the Main Wall, with a chimney at the bottom and a nice left-facing dihedral above it.

I don’t recall very much except that it was the usual nice 5 pitches or so, before the main wall kicked back to a low angle.

Pitch 1 and 2: Climb to the base of a chimney and then up to its top (5.8)

Pitch 3 and (maybe) Pitch 4: Climb the nice left-facing dihedral for some ways… (5.10)

Pitches 5-10: Continue to the top with minimal difficulties…  

Descent: Head to low point at the northern edge of the main wall. One or two rappels from fixed gear into the gully behind the main wall. Note: Fixed gear may or may not be there after almost 40 years!

I'm 98% certain that this route goes up the obvious chimney at right side of the Main Wall, but there's a small chance it ascends another chimney located nearby.

Natural gear