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Peak Mountain 3

The Scoundrel

FA Michael Hauck Jan 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is the route to the right of

Old Yellar

. It was originally bolted by the legendary Steve Hong and Pat Adams, much thanks!

The route is broken into 3 parts by 2 no hands rests. Once past the hollow and kinda chossy entry climbing, you get to a very techy, 12+ dihedral (I extended the 3rd draw to make it safer to clip). Once past the dihedral, you get to a ledge big enough you can walk around on, have a party, take a nap,

etc.

From here, you have a steep, undercling traverse on good holds eventually pulling a tricky bulge onto a hanging slab and another no hands rest. Finally you have reached the crux, probably a V6 on its own. Very sequential and perplexing, this took me some good sussing to actually figure out a method through the last 2 bolts. The route finishes with a jump to the finish jug on

Old Yellar

, what a stellar last move! It shares an anchor with

Old Yellar

and is a pain to clean while lowering. I would TR back up through the draws.

Overall, the route has subpar rock quality and is broken up by 2 no hands rests, but if you have already done

Old Yellar

, this is definitely worth getting on. It is very different.

Location

Start 10 feet to the right of

Old Yellar

.

Protection

Bolts with a sport anchor (shared with

Old Yellar

).


Routes in Old Yellar Dome