Blackbeard's Tears

The 1st route done on the cliff, an obvious stunning black crack surmounting a severely overhanging wave of stone. Originally climbed on aid, this route was recently freed by Ethan Pringle and may be be one of the hardest traditional routes in California, if not the world. As a free climb, Blackbeard's Tears logically breaks up into 3 sections.

P1: 5.10+, 40', gear to 3", new titanium glue-in anchors. Crux comes pulling a small roof about 20' up.

P2: 5.13c (?), 80' (from the ground), gear to 3" (heavy on the small stuff), rap anchors that appear to be in decent condition. The wall starts to steepen and the holds get thin...

P3: 5.14c (?), 120' (from the ground), anchors. Mega-steep, with an apparent V11 bulge past the second anchors, and maybe a second, harder crux up higher.

Get some!!!

Standard rack/thin aid gear