El Camino Real

An old aid climb called Fair Weather Friends (5.9 A3), this is now an incredible free pitch, with technical, strenuous finger crack climbing, stemming and liebacking.

Start below the large dihedral of

Howling at the Wind

, climb moderate rock to the base of the outrageous overhanging crack in the right wall, and climb it. This requires fiddling with gear at the start of the hard part, then sustained and devious climbing all the way to the anchor. It is some of the best hard rock Lumpy has to offer. Continue with

Corner Pump Station

, one of the best 5.11 pitches at Lumpy, or rap.

A 3 or 4" piece in the corner, some wireds or RPs to get started, then mixed bolts and wireds and TCUs. Belay from 2 bolts. 60m rope rap requires a bit of moderate downclimbing.