Merlin's Beard

Sit start with your feet low under the obvious overhang. Place your left hand in a good pocket and your right on a small crimp. Throw your left hand into an awesome jug, by the bat poo, and then make a strange heel hook-smear move, make it so you can undercling with your right hand and not pop off. Compress and pull up, the hard part is over. Make your way up the face holds instead of the easy off to the right ;)

This is on the backside (southmost) just to the left of the other climbs already established on this awesome rock.

Pad/use caution, these holds are iffy in places.