Queen of Spades

Here is another route that will never be a Rumney classic but I'll be damned if there isn't some really fun climbing on it. If you like techy crimping on not too steep rock (just slightly overhung) go for it. It does earn its R rating due to thin gear in the middle but the cruxes have ample gear for sure and there's always the old toprope style.

Start on a low rock next to the base of the boulder lean out and grab the thin crimps and commit. You can step out on to good feet (the whole route has really good feet) before making a move to good holds. Enjoy sequency moves on possitive holds through the middle section of the climb. This is where the gear is thin, many options but nothing great, I found a number 2 stopper to work well in the thin vertical seam to the left. At the last obvious good holds reach up and place gear in the pod/crack above and crimp and footwork your way through the crux to the finger lock finish before manteling to the top. there are many ways to do this last section look around at all the holds and see what works for you. If you are on toprope you might use the pod/crack for your hands but on lead I recommend gear in it.

The thin face and seam to the left of Black Jack Crack.

Thin nuts and cams.

I used a green C3 near the bottom (easily placed by leaning off of the boulder next to the climb), a #2 stopper in a thin seam around half way, and an orange TCU in the pod at the top.

there is a single bolt over the top.