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Peak Mountain 3

Shine Your Helmet

FA Jim Graham & John Marshall July 1985
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The "bolt ladder" goes free at about 5.10 (FFA Brad White ?)

The first ascentionists did the route as a 2 pitch route, combining what is given as P1 and P2 here, and then taking a line more to the right on the upper slab.

START- At the Right-facing corner/crack system about 15 ft right of the well-scrubbed climb "The Edge"

P1 - Climb the corner/crack system to the double bolt anchor. 50-60 ft 5.6 If you're not happy soloing 5.6 jam (or layback) cracks take along one or two size 4 Camalot(s).

P2 - Make free moves to the bolt ladder (now 3/8 inch SS) and up this to a dbl bolt anchor. 50+/- ft   5.10  or 5.7 A 0-1.

P3 - The FA seems to have gone more right to finish the climb, but the obvious line is to climb up the slab, trending sligtly left and passing two 3/8 inch SS bolts, to the P2 belay of The Edge. 110-115 ft 5.3-5.4

P4 - Either up P3 of The Edge (80 ft 5.5 - 5.6) or up right to finish more in the area of the FA.

Descent - Rap The Edge with a single 70m rope, or a 60m with tag line for the middle rap.

Protection

Medium to large ( #4 Camalot-sized) for P1, then draws.