The Iron Finger

The Iron Finger is the most prominent of all the buttresses that make up the Iron Gates. It’s easily identified as the column of light grey rock on Mt. Meeker’s NE flank. It’s so narrow that, from the right angle, it can be easily mistaken for a stand alone tower.

The route is a mostly bolted face climb ascending the buttress’s amazing gneiss-laden face. Though the bolts are decently spaced, every difficult move is well-protected. The route can be climbed without the three suggested cams, but will have runouts here and there on easier terrain. Given the northern aspect, wait to climb this until the season is hottest or until the sun hits around 1pm. Additionally, high winds can be brutal given the formations exceptionally narrow profile. Access to the summit anchors is an easy hike around the feature for those interested in working the moves first.

Max Manson also attempted to link the full route in one mega pitch. Unfortunately he was thwarted by a minor hold breaking at the final section of 5.12a. He says it definitely can be done with a thinner rope and more drag mitigation. Finally, thanks to Alton Richardson for helping with the vision needed to find the line.

P1

5.12c, 125 feet, 2 bolt anchor.

Start with easy scrambling to a right-facing dihedral with a little roof (tough 5.11+ protected by a bolt). Climb past a major ledge (optional belay), hold balance on some very delicate moves, and chill at a no hands rest out right. Then blast up the last three bolts of fantastic crimping on 10/10 rock (crux). 8 quickdraws, 3 alpine draws, 1 green C3.

P2

5.12a, 75 feet, 2 bolt anchor.

Traverse right across jugs to a bolt and an eventual no hands rest. Protect some easy terrain with a green C3 (optional) before following two more bolts and reaching a slippery jug ledge. Another great, reachy green C3 (optional) can be placed above here. Decrypt demanding moves up the seam and face holds out right (5.12a) . Finally, mantel up to a ledge and a little victory hand crack to the summit. 4 quickdraws, 2 alpine draws, 2 green C3s, 1 #2.

It is 4.3 miles to the base. Hike as for the Loft, and break out left toward the Iron Gates when opportune. A reasonably fast team can get there in about 2.5 hours.

Mandatory minimum

8 quickdraws

3 alpine draws

40m rope

Optional

Single #2

Double green C3s

Needed if linked as one mega pitch

Extra alpine draws to help mitigate rope drag including one double length for the P1 anchors

60m rope