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Peak Mountain 3

Seth's Sickness

FA Seth Tart
CREATED 
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Description

Seth's Sickness was named by Greg Loomis after initial first attempts and a few exciting and intentional test falls after the crux to make sure it was clean.

Sickness is basically an extended boulder problem route. It is short, powerful and sustained.

Just left of Tim's Reach Around (AKA Tim's Sport Route), walk part way up the boulder staircase to stick clip the first bolt. You can also boulder up or stick clip the rope into the first bolt of Reach Around to begin with and then stick clip the first bolt of Sickness as a rope directional. This simply gets the rope out of the way and off to the side giving the belayer better position, which is highly recommended. Start on the big hold in a seam, just down and left of the first bolt. Climb straight up and then start veering left through powerful, dynamic sequences with bad feet. The belayer should pay close attention toward the end of the crux sequence between bolt 2 and 3. The fall is clean but close enough to the boulder staircase ledges to necessitate close attention and very little slack in the rope. Clip the second bolt with a short quickdraw.

Location

Just left of Tim's Reach Around (AKA: Tim's Reach Around)

Protection

Sport. No Anchors. As with most routes at The Last Wall, bring a piece of 25' webbing if you want to set up an anchor.