Tetanus

[Originally posted as Gyro Dancer, name and FA changed to give credit to original developer] Sweet friction-y arete climb that can be done a few ways, either v2+ to v3+ depending on height and span. Beta below:Sit start matched on a ledge with a right foot flake, and the option of a far left foot ledge or a ledge under your hand start. Move out and left to a sidepull, rearrange your feet and move on the arete with your right and into an undercling with your left hand. Transfer onto the arete with both hands using tension and move out right to a crimp slot. Bump your left up, match into the arete, use an awesome ball hold, and throw out right to a dish and a good topout using an immaculate left pinch. This route has been climbed direct, and adds fun techy moves to the start and maybe half a grade. This version is definitely more "pure", but you should climb it however makes you happy. 

This route is located at the end of the cliff band. From Porcupine Crack, travel ~75feet down the trail to the right. Move over the large metal plate and Tetanus is up the hill. 

2-3 pads