Lever Action

When we couldn't quite find the start of

Winchester

, we followed the obvious, slanting crack, which just led us to wonderful terrain.

approach: begin in the chimney adjacent to the huge cleft between 2nd and 3rd buttresses. on the right side work up and right any away from an often oozing chimney:

P1: ascend a thin, smooth seam that angles up and right across smooth slab, 5.9R.

P2: start out on the right then pierce thru easy overhangs. Continue up and left, and up and left through the 'inverted staircase'. It looks much scarier than it is, 5.8.

P3: climb the very steep, left-facing dihedral ending on a rounded dome-like top of a pillar.

P4:

P5: broken rock yields easier terrain and ends on a very large ledge.

P6: walk around to the left/south side of the buttress, and choose a chimney that will take you to the summit.

Walk off to the west and drop into The Gash for the long way back or scramble north onto the top of the 4th buttress and find zig-zag descent shared with the gully to the south and a 3rd to 4th class descend to the base.

I will fill in these details as soon as I find my damn notes.

It is next to

Winchester

.

A standard alpine 1 & 1/2 rack up to a #4.