"The One"

This long and enjoyable route is the longest sport route in NW California; it begins near the lowest point at Cecilville and tops out the highest point on the prow that looms over the summit ridge. The anchors are set high above the ledges to reduce friction while pulling ropes; a PAS won’t be long enough, so you’ll need to clove hitch into the anchor, trad-dad style. The name is because the FA of this route included an extremely elaborate, and successful marriage proposal!

P1. (5.10a) After a small roof enjoy steep slab with good scoops. Belay on a large grassy ledge. Extend the anchor 20’ if you plan on top roping (or hammer in two bolts in the empty holes I left at the top of the pitch). 85’ 9 bolts.

P2. (5.10a) Wonderful steep slab to a small belay ledge. 75’ 8 bolts.

P3. (4th Class) Walk left on the small grassy ledge. 45’ 2 bolts.

P4. (5.10a) Another vertical start gives way to a slab with an exciting no hands traverse left across a good foot rail. The crux is the last 30’ where the wall steepens, but is thankfully featured with great holds. Belay on large grassy ledge. 115’ 12 bolts

P5. (5.10b) Obtuse dihedral to an awesome roof with insane cave huecos. Belay on a small ledge. 70’ 9 bolts

P6. (5.10c) Continue up the slab then clip the bolt above the ledge with a stiffy draw or place a #2 cam instead. Crank on pockets up and left onto the tip of the summit prow. You could cheat out right, but you'd be a bit runnout and would rob yourself of an exciting finish! 60’ 7 bolts.

Descend by making five rappels. Skip the traverse pitch, instead rappel to the large ledge, and walk right to the first pitch anchor to make one more rappel. I'm not sure if a 60m rope will work, maybe.

The start is located on a walking ledge about 40' left of the large rock scar (white). The route can be approached from either direction, but if coming from the left, the left trail is the fastest. Around the last switchback where the trail goes left, instead, go straight towards the base of the Broken Buttress.

12 draws. One stiffy draw or 2" cam.