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Peak Mountain 3

Ramshackle

FA Miguel Grijalva
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Begin just right of an obvious line of bolts (threadbare) at a short left facing corner with a ledge and small tree at its end. Scramble up to the base of the left facing corner and climb to the ledge/tree and clip a bolt. Work your way up to another bolt that protects a thin 5.9 section. Continue up on easier terrain past a fixed pin to a final bolt and another 5.9 section to gain a nice ledge with an anchor (100ft). Pitch two goes up slightly left of the anchor to a bolt, then straight up into a nice crack system to the top (5.8, 65ft). Can be done in a single pitch but prepare for rope drag.

Location

Starts in the corner just right of the line of bolts on a dark steep face. Rappel the route. Two raps with a single 60 m rope works.

Protection

4 bolts, a pin, and occasional gear placements (small nuts) on pitch one. The crack on pitch two protects well with nuts and hand sized cams toward the top. There's a bolted anchor a bit to the right of where the crack tops out.