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Mushmom
Description
Crux is the first move. Sit start on the shallow pinch block, getting as much opposition as possible off the good foot hold. Power up to the shelf, keeping core tension to avoid dabbing the other boulder. There are several ways to to the slab. I make a somewhat big move up to the good sloper in the middle of the lip, but there are various smaller crimps near the base of the slab or immediately below the lip to use as well. Maintain tension to cross over your right hand to the good jug crimps above the sloper, match, then bump right hand up to another good jug crimp, and come into another good incut jug crimp to the left of your right hand. Do what you need to to rock up on a foot and lean forward onto the slab, then walk up. This route is technically an eliminate, since you cannot use the good jug shelves to the right or left of the slab on this line, however, it still works well because the slab is so large. More like avoiding temptation to use them than actually avoid them. The stand start begins on the jug shelf and goes at V5 or so.
Location
Sit start on the roof of the main boulder, right in the middle.
Protection
1 pad
Routes in B: Broken Bridge Area
- 6MushmomV8-9Bouldering