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Peak Mountain 3

Wright-Pond

FA Chris Wright & Mike Pond, 2009
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

As noted in the area beta, I decided to add this route now - 8 years after we climbed it - because it seemed worthy of not being completely forgotten as it's a very nice climb. Each of the first three pitches is challenging, technical, and has high-quality climbing on clean granite (or at least it was clean back when when we climbed it originally). The first ascent was ground-up and involved only bolted anchors and an alternative second pitch. We went back again in 2010 to add lead bolts and clean it up, and at the time it was quite good. I doubt it's been repeated since.

P1 5.11a/b, 55m – Begin by climbing the obvious left-facing arch depicted in the photo above. At its terminus, head directly up gaining a shallow, right-facing corner. Climb this past one bolt to a strenuous pinch at an overlap. Gain the pinch and move left to a stance (crux) below a handsome, right-facing corner to the right of a large roof. Climb left around a flake to gain the corner and climb the corner crack to a bolted belay at a ledge with a small tree. A bold lead.

P2 5.10c/d, 50m – Leave the belay to the left and head up a large flake towards a bolt on a small overlap. Clip the bolt and step right into a clean open book. Stemming and thin fingers lead through the open book and past another bolt to gain a stance. Step right and follow the line of six bolts up the face (crux) on small edges and pockets. Step left past the last bolt to a clean, shallow, right-facing corner. Follow the corner to another bolted belay.

P3 5.10a, 50m – Head up the obvious right-facing corner (mostly fingers) until it closes out. Work the corner and face past one bolt until a small roof. Pull left past the roof into left-facing corner crack. Climb the crack up and left before another crack trends slightly rightward. Jam fingers and hands to its finish and climb a short, easy slab up and right to a treed ledge and another bolted belay at the base of a left facing corner/chimney.

P4 5.8, 45m – Climb the blocky corner/chimney up past a tree until you gain a low-angled slab. Head left across the slab to a wide hand and fist crack hidden in a left-facing corner. Exit the corner up and right on blocky but easy ground to low-angled ledges. A tree with rappel slings is on the left.

Descent: Rap the route in four double-rope rappels.

Location

Begin on the left side of the wall at an obvious arching crack that leads up to the right-hand side of a large roof system.

Protection

Doubles to #3 Camalot, emphasis on small cams and wires. RPs useful.


Routes in Cutthroat Creek Wall or Little Liberty Bell


  1. 2
    Wright-Pond
    5.11a/b
    Alpine · Trad