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Peak Mountain 3

The Weatherman's Thumb

FA Rick Thompson, Carl Samples (1994)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This wall is not as aesthetically pleasing as some of the other nearby walls, but it offers some unique climbing. Begin with some interesting 5.11 face climbing for the first four or five bolts.

The crux begins when you pass through the large diagonal flake that separates the wall. The rock kicks back a little bit and hanging/clipping the next three draws can be very difficult (skipping a draw here could be the way to go). Claw your way up tiny holds, utilizing two left hand crimps with nice thumb catches. The final moves of the sequence will be much harder if you're shorter, but still achievable. The crux is short lived and soon you'll be strolling through easier slopey climbing.

This route is located on the corner of Diamond Point that receives afternoon sun light. The route can feel a bit dank and slippery if you get on it in the morning. Its best to let it dry off before attempting it.

Location

Located in the left corner of Diamond Point. It is just right of Homer Erectus and travels through some orange rock in the first third of the climb.

Protection

11 bolts + anchor