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Definitely one of the best face routes at Meadow Camp. Start on slightly overhanging face holds just a few feet right of the start for "Solstice" and work up to an interesting traverse right and up to a big ledge. From the ledge you have two choices:
- move left and make a difficult balance move left around the arete, and continue up the left side reaching back around right when you get to the obvious pockets. With your right hand in the pockets, make a hard pull to a small pinch on the arete, then gain the top! (11d/12a) (Note: you do have to contrive slightly to keep yourself from reaching all the way over to the right edge when you gain the pockets, but otherwise this really is a pretty natural line)
Or: 2) Stay on the right side of the arete, moving up with one hand on each side of the pillar, utilizing heel hooks on both sides. (10d/11a) (this way also feels a little contrived since you aren't fully entering the crack on the right)
Location
The striking arete just to the right of "Solstice."
Protection
Single eye bolt, easily backed up with the anchor for "Solstice" 3' away.
Routes in Meadow Camp
- 36Awesome Arete5.11aTr