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Peak Mountain 3

Cersei

FA JS, Jeff Traub, Sept. 2013
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is the left-most climb on the clean buttress left of

Starstruck

and the

Minotaur

routes. Although the first pitch is so-so (should clean up with more ascents), the second is a looker. Begin with steep face climbing past two bolts (5.9+) to gain easy broken cracks. Above diagonal left to a bolt marking the beginning of the next steep section. The bolt allows one to forego placing gear in suspect rock and protects moves (be circumspect) to a more solid, albeit very thin crack above -- think brass or steel nuts. Belay at chain anchors from a small ledge. This also is the recommended way to get to the money pitch of

Old Habits

, and can also serve as an approach to

Mad Calf'’s

crux pitch.

The second pitch steps right to a crack to gain the bolt-protected arête leading to the roofband right of the overhanging crack of

Cost of Business

. Work over the roofband and continue past a few more bolts to a ledge with chain anchors.

Cersei

ends here, but you can continue up

Mad Calf

by stepping left or the last pitch of

Starstruck

by stepping right.

Location

See the

Tyrion

page. Descent: From the ledge marking the end of

Cersei

, descend the route in two raps; you can reach the ground in a single rap from the ledge with a 70 meter rope, but it will barely reach. A photodiagram of this and neighboring routes is on the main Strone Crag page.

Protection

A set of cams from 0.5 to 2.5 inches, a set of brass (offsets useful), and draws.