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Peak Mountain 3

The Golden Ticket

FA G.Kaplan, Feb 2020
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UPDATED 

Description

This crack dihedral is in the first bit of rock you come to once you enter Windy Canyon.   This first wall is Chali and the Toprope Factory and will be an excellent beginners area, as well as a great family area for younger children (with traffic and once I finish what I have planned). There is an Indian staircase/scramble that gets you to the top of most of these TR’s (there are a dozen possible variations).   And there is even an additional series of top-ropes up above on the Glass Elevator Ledge (where the Everlasting TR Pillar is).

The Golden Ticket is a perfect guides crack or beginner trad crack. It protects very well and every piece can be made from secure stances. The lower part of the climb currently scrambles up about 25’ of easy 4th class terrain, but from the upper belay perch, there is a solid 50’ of excellent easy crack/dihedral. I think I will put in a “guide anchor” here as well, but currently there is an additional 25’ of 5.5 to a set of chain anchors on a prominent nose

Location

This is the most prominent dihedral on the first wall encountered when walking up Windy Canyon.  I currently only have the 2 sets of TR anchors installed but plan on finishing it out.   All the TR variations have been done to some extent

Protection

Trad or Top-Rope