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Peak Mountain 3

Sisyphus

FA SG&SP '72; FFA: TB&DA '81
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UPDATED 

Description

This is among the finer all-gear "crack" climbs in the area (there's a pin down low but it's superfluous). It's fairly splitter for SOAZ, and although you're not jamming/locking the entire time, which is actually really nice (tasty face moves too...), you never really leave the crack system. While noted by Bob Kerry as "THE test piece in Sabino", it is easily protected and the climbing fairly straightforward, if not continuously pumpy and exciting! Definitely worth the effort if you're visiting the Acropolis.Starts steep right off the bat above the belay ledge and stays that way, culminating with a pumpy bulge and run to the anchors. The line probably protects better in the fingers to hands size as the smaller gear is often in hollower rock, but you'll fill up some of your jams if you do.

Location

Farthest left route on the Acropolis; reach the belay ledge via a ~5.7 approach pitch in a right-facing corner a bit right of the obvious main splitter--you could also link this into the entire climb if you wanted; rappel the route with two ropes, or an 80m might just make it back down (tie knots!). Steiger's topo here

Protection

Overkill OS rack: doubles 0.2-0.5, triples 0.75-#2, one optional #3/#4, stoppers; the belay atop the approach pitch takes 0.3-#1; top anchor is two fat, newer buttonheads with quicklinks