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Peak Mountain 3

Gone With the Wind

FA Kevin Rogers, Cheri Smith, Nikki Smith, 1998
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The route described here may be a slight variation of that described in Smith'’s and Tustig'’s 2004 guide. Toward the right (eastern) side of Book Cliffs is a striking, but short (about 30 feet), square-cut face with an arete on its right margin. Start about 10-15 feet left of the arete (not just right of the arete as described in the guide --– that route is

Hero Maker

(5.11a)). Climb a disjointed crack system to its end, step right, then face climb to the top. The guide indicates that

Gone With the Wind

may be on the cleaner face between the disjointed crack system and the arete, but that line appears a bit harder than 5.7 and may be more difficult to protect –-- although it looks like the better route!

Smith and Tustig in their guide say that the section of the cliff with

Gone With the Wind

is used regularly by the Boy Scouts, and they encourage climbers to go elsewhere when the scouts are there. Makes sense to me.

Location

Right (eastern) side of Book Cliffs, left of an obvious arete with four bolts (

Hero Maker

).

Protection

Protects decently with a good range of cams (micros up). Belay from two bolts several feet to the east. Scramble down a short gully to the east to descend.