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Peak Mountain 3

Traverse of Mount Index

FA Schoening and Beckey
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The first recorded traverse of the most upper wall of Index first happened in August of 1950. The first ascent party consisting of Schoening and Beckey climbed in sneakers over two nights. They reached the summit of the north peak by noon on the first day, before spending a night on the middle and main summits.

Modern parties can likely do the route in one night, with the cruxes being water and conditions. Climbing early season can bring more snow, but greater risk of rock falling down from overhead. Late season brings less overhead hazard, but snow/water becomes rare. A traverse in any season will be quite the serious endeavor.

Regardless of when you climb it, be prepared for amazing views and a lot of loose rock.

Location

Start at the lake. Climb the skyline from right to left.

Protection

Single alpine rack and a handful or two of rappels worth of tat if comfortable at the grade.


Routes in North Peak


  1. 2
    Traverse of Mount Index
    5.7+
    Alpine · Trad