We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Nuts and Bolts

FA Russ Johnson, April 1989
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The namesake climb of this little piece of real estate. In my attempt to sample at least one or two climbs in each "wall" at Fugs wall I sought out this and found a new 1/2" SS anchor on the climb next to it and with a cam directional it was easy to TR.

In it's current condition it would be a serious lead. The 2 buttonhead/ SMC hanger bolts look solid ( well, as solid as 1/4" bolts go) but the rock they are in is highly fractured.

I cleaned all the really loose rock away, but did not replace the bolts.. If the bolts were replaced I would remove the R rating.With the anchor next to it, it did not need it's own anchor.

That said it is a really fun, with a very hard sequence past the 2nd bolt.

The crack above this is good and quite a bit easier.

Location

Around the corner ( right/west) from the Piton Traverse. The 2 bolts that you will see give it away, and to it's right are 2 pitons on Pyrogenous.

Protection

the crack is about 50' of hand and finger size.


Routes in Nuts and Bolts Wall


  1. 1
    Nuts and Bolts
    5.11a
    Trad