- Edit (TBD)
Description
The namesake climb of this little piece of real estate. In my attempt to sample at least one or two climbs in each "wall" at Fugs wall I sought out this and found a new 1/2" SS anchor on the climb next to it and with a cam directional it was easy to TR.
In it's current condition it would be a serious lead. The 2 buttonhead/ SMC hanger bolts look solid ( well, as solid as 1/4" bolts go) but the rock they are in is highly fractured.
I cleaned all the really loose rock away, but did not replace the bolts.. If the bolts were replaced I would remove the R rating.With the anchor next to it, it did not need it's own anchor.
That said it is a really fun, with a very hard sequence past the 2nd bolt.
The crack above this is good and quite a bit easier.
Location
Around the corner ( right/west) from the Piton Traverse. The 2 bolts that you will see give it away, and to it's right are 2 pitons on Pyrogenous.
Protection
the crack is about 50' of hand and finger size.