Descent Route

This is the line to the right of the

Uphill Slabs aka TR wall

. It is probably the easiest way to the top of the rock. Rossiter's guidebook rates it as 5.4. Gillett's guidebook rates it as 5.0. So, let's split the difference. It probably depends on exactly where you stop, since getting to the first set of chains is a bit easier/less exposed than getting to the top.

Start just to the right of the shallow, right-facing dihedral/crescent of the north face of the rock. Follow jugs up. Not much pro until about 30 feet up. Some cracks appear. There are chains about 60 feet up. There are also chains at the top of the rock. Note, these are set back a bit, so you get a bit of rope drag.

Probably, most important, this is

not

the best route for a small kid, since the holds are fairly well-spaced.

This is on the North face of the rock, just to the right of a shallow, right-facing dihedral.

Light rack to at most a #3 Camalot.