- Edit (TBD)
Description
P1- Climb the clean low angle slab for 160' to a bolted belay.
P2- Move right over a short, fun roof. Ascend the face above to a fixed belay below the impressive roof.
P3- Layback the 1" corner to the crack. The overhanging hand crack is Sweeeeeeet! Belay at it's top to avoid rope drag. (5.10)
P4- Move the belay up 35'
P4- A moderate pitch leads past bolts & pins to a belay at the midway ledge.(190')
P5- Ascend the ever steepening slab (great rock) past 2 bolts to a belay under a roof...5.7 or 5.8
P6- friction past bolts and a pin to a belay under a roof at 3 bolts. (same belay as Goat Heaven). Rap off using 2 ropes.
Variation: Superfingers
...On pitch 2 traverse right and up to a belay beneath another overhanging crack. Crank out the overhanging fingers and hands to a belay at it's top. (5.11) Join Goat Heaven from here.
Variation: Aid Crack
15' below the overhanging Super Crack is a C1 aid crack...could go free.
Variation:
Instead of climbing Super Crack (5.10) follow the fingercrack up the corner to the upper belay (5.8)
Variation:
From Pitch 2, diagonal up & left to a bulge. Move back right, above the roof (don't fall) past 2 bolts to the upper belay.(5.8)
Location
Start 15' left of Goat Heaven.
Protection
Extra hand sized cams to a #3 camalot.