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Peak Mountain 3

Roulette

FA Chris Deuto
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

If you enjoy perplexing movement on some of the best granite in CO, this could be a sweet winter project. It’s one of my favorite first ascents.

Start sitting on a low left hand edge above the flake and an even lower right hand crack/slot. Make several taxing and power-tech based moves with difficult kneebarring until the rock yields a sideways jug. Catch a breath, and execute a morpho second crux (harder short beta possible), then finish on a sequential highball topout.

It is very possible that this line is V12. I originally was going to propose solid 8a+, but after working it for more than a day, I noticed it is the type of climb that gets easier to do as you learn the technical finesse of the moves. I gave it a slash grade to remain honest until a consensus emerges. With that said, it doesn’t matter; Roulette is one of the best.

Location

This is the leftmost line on the main face. Beginning low in the little cave with a left hand sidepull edge (the lowest hold in the crack feature) and a right hand slot just above the hollow flake which provide feet. Move up the prow then onto the face.

Protection

At least 3 pads and a good spot. It has a better landing than

Dodge...

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