Mr. Clean

This climb is unbelieveable. You will want to lick your fingers when you are done just to make sure you got it all. Begin about 20 feet left of Tugley Wood. Look for the obvious small, bright yellow roof about forty feet up. Begin with a short, enjoyable approach pitch that brings one to a stance with chains below the roof. Pitch 2 is the crux. Fire through the roof (single crux move) then continue for a full-value pitch up the incredibly sustained fingers and thin-hands crack. This pitch is probably about 165 feet long with no truly great rests. The are chains at the top of the pitch. Keep your eyes open for feet out on the left face, they will save you. Pitch 3 looks fun and goes at .10a, but most parties rap at the top of the second pitch. Another great .11a testpiece very similar to Carol's crack, but slightly easier

Lots of medium and large stoppers. Many cams in the .5 inch to 1.5 inch range. Many hands and big hands if you plan to do the third pitch.