The Cleft

This route starts on the north face of the east ridge/buttress of Hallett Peak. Above Emerald Lake, and about 100' east of Hallett Couloir, ascend a steep and narrow couloir for ~200' then turn climber's right up low 5th class terrain towards a cleft in the cliffs above.

When my partner and I climbed this, the rock section out of the couloir was pouring water. Climb the waterfall to the cleft for ~60m (

We did it un-roped

) and position yourself below the cleft chimney. You should be able to see an old pin halfway up the chimney.

This chimney is the 1st crux. Depending on what time of year you arrive, it could be ice/snow, or all rock. It was all rock at the end of May. Stem the chimney or whatever it takes to get up it. The rock is loose here. Move right out of the chimney and then climb another steeper pitch of snow for ~80m to a small roof/overhang.

Pull the roof and then climb a bit more snow. Move right and belay from another overhang. Circle around it and climb the final steep snow slopes to the blocky summit.

North face of the east ridge/buttress on Hallett Peak above Emerald Lake. ~100' east of Hallett Couloir. Descend via Hallett Couloir, or you can walk off the back and down to Lake Haiyaha if snow conditions in the descent couloir are too dangerous. Take the Lake Haiyaha trail back to Dream Lake.

Standard mixed rack. Cams to BD C4 #2, selection of nuts. We used a 60m rope and had to simul up the steep snow on P3 some.

No anchors, only one old pin on P2.