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Peak Mountain 3

Cryptology

FA Craig Britton & Chris Miller, September 2011
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Anchor the belayer (a large block can be slung) then stem across the chasm to reach the first bolt.

Fun climbing up plated face to the midpoint where the rock changes character and becomes less featured to a crux at the 5th bolt. Higher make a delicate traverse left to gain a good horizontal and progressively larger holds to the top.

The climbing on this route is very reminiscent of Joshua Tree with it's delicate friction moves and tricky sequences and is perhaps best done in the shade or cooler weather.

Can be started from the ground by working up the wide crack and if you pre-clip the first bolt you won't need any gear.

Location

Far left side of the SW face, just left of

The Great Steps of Cheops

.

The route is best approached by hiking up-slope parallel to the wall until able to traverse right on ledges to the base unless starting lower.

Protection

6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (all 3/8")