We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Cactus Cooler

FA Jeff Sewell & Roy McClenahan 1979
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

To the left of the bolted dike "Roy's Route" .11b is this nice right-leaning, right-facing corner with a thin crack. Scramble through some scrub oak and nolinas to reach an uncomfortable vegetated belay at the base. Mind the prickly pear cactus, too.

Climb up the fun tips-to-fingers corner (crux), to easier and wandering terrain above. This route really shines as a JTree "adventure climb" - expect to find some loose blocks, cactus, yucca, and some easy runouts enroute to the top. Belay on a sloping slabby ledge with a horizontal crack.

Location

To the right of the main face containing "Taken for Granite" and "200 Motels". An obvious right facing corner down low.

To descend - see that 2" diameter scrub oak to your right with the slings? Well, you can risk rappelling off it, or just downclimb the 4th class corner back to the base like I did.

Protection

Cams/nuts from tips to 3". The larger gear is useful for the belay. Helmet for your belayer is a good idea too.