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Description
This crack is the prominent corner to the left of
Scarlet Begonias
. Most folks just climb to the chain anchors just above the flake, making the climb a 5.10b. The 5.11c comes past the first set of anchors and follows a finger crack over a small roof about 50 ft further.
It is fantastic! Perfect hands in the corner and then pulling the flake is a tad exposed but very fun. Very sustained classic crack climbing! Great route!
Note that all anchors were placed on lead.
Protection
Mostly #1s and #2s all the way. A .75 is handy above the flake. A #3 may fit just below the flake too. Smaller gear will be necessary if you climb the small section. Watch your rope drag; it's a little tricky. A few slings could be helpful. Two bomber bolt anchors with chains are at the top of both pitches.
Routes in Cerberus Gendarme
- 9Fails of Power5.11cTrad