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MapDescription
This route climbs the seam to the right of the
Ye Olde...
corner crack (3rd pitch). It can be accessed many different ways - probably best would be to start with
Where Tunas Flop
, then do a fun traverse pitch to the base. From the belay, head up the ramp, clip a piton, then commit to the headwall. In-your-face, vertical crimping, jamming, and tips moves get you to more positive 5.9ish climbing until the bolted anchor.
Continue on, and top out or make 2-3 rappels. There is a fixed nut anchor after the first rappel. From here, it's one more rap with a 70m to make it down. A bolted anchor will be installed eventually.
Protection
A light rack to 0.75 with an emphasis on RPs and the smallest ballnuts and a couple draws for the pitons.
Routes in Lover's Leap
- 3Seamingly Easy5.11dTrad