Emerald Corner

A short route up a steep corner system on the south buttress of Mt Majestic, steep enough to stay dry while it is raining! The outrageous last pitch involves bolted face climbing out a leaning corner splitting a double overhanging prow. This pitch went free besides one move and is expected to be upper 5.13. This line overhangs by about 30ft in three pitches. The route is an open project for any hardman to attempt.

Pitch 1: 5.11-

Start in a bolted chimney that leads to a nice varied crack in a left facing corner. Stop on a nice ledge out left with an anchor.

Pitch 2: 5.12c

Continue up the corner with a varied finger crack to a rest where the crack splits. Take the right fork out an undercling roof with a bolt. A bolted belay awaits above the roof at the sky perch.

(Note about the left fork: the route was initially envisioned to go left at the fork and out the crack roof, but a huge aid fall zippered seven pieces across the roof due to very soft rock)

P

itch 3: 5.13 C0

From the sky perch, head right up a mega steep and leaning corner. A short, fully bolted pitch with lots of bouldery sections on nice stone. There is one move in the middle going from an undercling to a finger lock that we couldn't figure out. The rest of the climbing is still in the 5.13 range to piece together, with a beautiful scoop mantle finish that is V6ish on its own. I could imagine the pitch going free at upper 5.13

Decent:

Either sport lower the last pitch, or leave your tagline fixed to the sky perch belay. Easy rappelling down the rest of the pitches.

The approach is the same as the Behunin Canyon exit hike. Take the trail for Upper Emerald Pools. Once directly above the lower emerald pools, follow the drainage taking a trail rightward. Aim for a steep left facing corner system on the far left side of Mt Majestic

Double rack to 3, extra finger sized. 10x draws. Two ropes (a single 70m would probably get you down)