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Peak Mountain 3

A Hatch

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Description

This is pitch 4 of the route An act of strange boar, a group of mysteries of frenchwoman, a ship called black rock, and a hatch. It is at the very top of Lookout Point, and finishes right at the apex as viewed from town, which is left (west) of the flagpole.

Face climb up to the shallow right-facing corner/flake/roof feature, following the line of bolts. The first move is about 10+ or 11-. Upon reaching the top of this feature, follow the thin, rounded crack left across the face. The crack widens and turns the corner, becoming thin hands. The technical crux is the start of the crack, but the real crux is maintaining enough strength to reach the thin hands. There are only the merest of knobs for the feet. End at chains.

Location

From the top of Black Rock, go up and left to the big treed ledge. About 15' left of the V-thread anchor, look for a small flake leaning against the wall and a bolt not far above it.

Protection

Four bolts going up to the crack, then the smallest TCUs or flexible camming units for the horizontal. Midway across the blank section, the edge is more cracklike, with tip jams about 1/2" wide that take a good camming unit. At the end, a good finger jam from where you can slot a great #5 RP brass nut (the largest, about 1/4"). Also include 1-2 pieces of pro for about 30' of thin hands at the end.