We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Sacred Datura Direct

FA (Original) Larry Treiber, Barbara Zinn, 1974 (Direct) Jim Waugh, John Ficker, 1980
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The mental crux of this climb is reaching the first bolt. A slabby start with small holds leads up and right for several meters to that point, from which you traverse right to access a good crack. Climb that crack to the top of the rock on good locks and good pro.

Location

This route in on the North Face of Tom's Thumb. It is found by going just left of a right-facing dihedral that turns into a right-leaning roof 6 meters up (this is the climb 'Sucubus' a 5.10a). The crack that is accessed via face climbing is continuous with the initial start of Sucubus were you to skip the roof to the right.

Protection

A set of nuts a few smaller cams and some slings. A bolt down low is good protection just as the distance from the dirt would be too dangerous.